[JACoH]

So, finished a ride today with 653 miles on the Z, so drained the oil, whilst performing all other maintenance listed. Installed the new filter, added 1 3/4 quarts of oil for starters to check level. Started it up, let it run a few, waited for the oil level to appear in window, never did. Emptied the 2nd quart bottle in, barely visible at bottom of window. Specs say it takes 1.9 qts with filter change, or 1.8 litre. Has anyone else noticed this? Or have you just filled it until it appears in window? Which is what I am doing, but that means the owners manual and s/m is incorrect. I'm kinda anal about these sorts of things. The service manual says 2.4 qts only when doing an overhaul with dry engine.

 

[Tremonte]

If you had the bike on a rear wheel stand, and not a front, you probably emptied the gearbox reservoir. I haven't looked too close at the Kawasaki yet, but the Yamaha shares fluid between the two. If you raise the rear, it empties both. That would be your extra half quart. I usually just let it drain, then fill it back to mid point in the sightglass.

Oh yeah... did you see any abnormal amount of flakes or shavings on the first change?

 

[JACoH]

Checked the oil for metal, using a magnet and clean drain pan, nothing to speak of.
Did not use the rear stand. I have a wheel dock stand that holds bike upright and level, on a level garage floor. Went for a 150 mile ride today, after resting for 2 hours, level is fine between the lines, ended up filling with 2.05 liters exact.

 

[Stitch]

That's a pretty significant difference between what the manual states and what it actually takes.. this is something people should be taking note of.

 

[JACoH]

Especially as I let oil drain a couple hours to get it all out, and engine cools down, on side stand. Straighten bike up on my wheeldock and remove oil filter to drain the bit from there. I add oil to the new filter and let it soak it up before installing it to a cool engine. I have enough experience to know not to check level on a rear stand. Actual amount added was pre-measured in a graduated cc beaker, for my own satisfaction.

 

[roadhawk]

Glad to hear there wasn't any level of metal found of concern, too bad more owners don't follow through on the same process otherwise we'd have a good sample size to go off of. But so far Kawi's seem to be solid.

 

[Stitch]

Especially as I let oil drain a couple hours to get it all out, and engine cools down, on side stand. Straighten bike up on my wheeldock and remove oil filter to drain the bit from there. I add oil to the new filter and let it soak it up before installing it to a cool engine. I have enough experience to know not to check level on a rear stand. Actual amount added was pre-measured in a graduated cc beaker, for my own satisfaction.

Now that is definitely a very precise and thorough way of doing an oil change and I like it!

But speaking of metal concerns or anything, has anyone ever sent oil out to that lab to get it checked?

 

[JACoH]

I have sent in samples to Blackstone labs for 2 of my previous Prii, but forgot about it with the Z. Maybe next change. Costs $25.00, and nothing was ever reported negative, so I figure use good oil and change as needed, and save $25. Modern oils and excellent engines now days eliminate worries.

 

[Stitch]

That is true. Once you're diligent with it and keep on top of maintenance, you'll be good. Which oil do you use?

 

[JACoH]

I've been using Lucas Synthetic Motorcycle oils for years. Started in the '90' after being around some funny car drag racers.

 

[Cowasaki]

Never knew you could empty the gearbox reservoir if it's on a rear stand only. Luckily mine are always mounted on two stands so it's level at all times.

Thanks for letting us know about how much oil the Z650 takes, that's a far cry from what's listed in the manual.

 

[Tremonte]

Never knew you could empty the gearbox reservoir if it's on a rear stand only.

Yeah, I'm not sure the Z is that way, but all of my Yamahas are like that. I'm just assuming it is since it's a wet gearbox.

 

[Stitch]

Gotta love the drag racing scene. It always interested me but was way too expensive haha

 

[Shamsul Kamal]

So, finished a ride today with 653 miles on the Z, so drained the oil, whilst performing all other maintenance listed. Installed the new filter, added 1 3/4 quarts of oil for starters to check level. Started it up, let it run a few, waited for the oil level to appear in window, never did. Emptied the 2nd quart bottle in, barely visible at bottom of window. Specs say it takes 1.9 qts with filter change, or 1.8 litre. Has anyone else noticed this? Or have you just filled it until it appears in window? Which is what I am doing, but that means the owners manual and s/m is incorrect. I'm kinda anal about these sorts of things. The service manual says 2.4 qts only when doing an overhaul with dry engine.

Done my 1st oil and filter changed. 2 one liter bottles. Oil exactly half way between max and min in window.

 

[S2K_MoZo]

Checked the oil for metal, using a magnet and clean drain pan, nothing to speak of.
Did not use the rear stand. I have a wheel dock stand that holds bike upright and level, on a level garage floor. Went for a 150 mile ride today, after resting for 2 hours, level is fine between the lines, ended up filling with 2.05 liters exact.

Hi JACoH, thank you for creating this thread since this is exactly why I came to the forum. I called dealer for first service and they want almost $300 for oil change and checking all the maintenance items which I'm sure I can do. He said they will check tires, chain for slack, throttle for slack, clutch for slack and just basic checking of everything else. I think $300 is a ripoff from the dealer and I've been doing oil changes on all my bikes and cars for a long time.

I have never bought a brand new bike before so I'm just wondering how do you check for metal? I was planning on using some sort of cloth between oil drain bolt/area and drain pan that I have so I will catch anything metal. Since my pan doesn't open all the way, I can not use metal afterwards. I'm just trying to figure out how you did it and if you checked for anything else besides just changing oil. Did you use the OEM filter?

Oh, and I'd love to see a pic of your setup if you don't mind sharing that keeps bike on the ground and straight for oil changes. Do you put aluminum foil on header so it stays clean when you take out the filter?

 

[jcarcinogen]

Hi JACoH, thank you for creating this thread since this is exactly why I came to the forum. I called dealer for first service and they want almost $300 for oil change and checking all the maintenance items which I'm sure I can do. He said they will check tires, chain for slack, throttle for slack, clutch for slack and just basic checking of everything else. I think $300 is a ripoff from the dealer and I've been doing oil changes on all my bikes and cars for a long time.

I have never bought a brand new bike before so I'm just wondering how do you check for metal? I was planning on using some sort of cloth between oil drain bolt/area and drain pan that I have so I will catch anything metal. Since my pan doesn't open all the way, I can not use metal afterwards. I'm just trying to figure out how you did it and if you checked for anything else besides just changing oil. Did you use the OEM filter?

Oh, and I'd love to see a pic of your setup if you don't mind sharing that keeps bike on the ground and straight for oil changes. Do you put aluminum foil on header so it stays clean when you take out the filter?

To check for metal flakes in the oil, just slosh it around in the drain pan. It will sink to the bottom, if theyre there you'll see them. I use a plastic shopping bag to put on my header pipes when I take the filter off to keep oil off of them. I also use a k&n filter kn-303 to be exact.

 

[S2K_MoZo]

To check for metal flakes in the oil, just slosh it around in the drain pan. It will sink to the bottom, if theyre there you'll see them. I use a plastic shopping bag to put on my header pipes when I take the filter off to keep oil off of them. I also use a k&n filter kn-303 to be exact.

Thank you for that info. I'll try that method when I change the oil. I know it's a terrible subject but I'm just wondering if you got your oil at the dealer or you prefer something else?
What all did you do for your 600 mile service?
And thank you again for the oil filter info.
I am thinking of doing an oil change before I put the bike away for next couple of months so all that garbage is not just sitting in there.

 

[jcarcinogen]

Thank you for that info. I'll try that method when I change the oil. I know it's a terrible subject but I'm just wondering if you got your oil at the dealer or you prefer something else?
What all did you do for your 600 mile service?
And thank you again for the oil filter info.
I am thinking of doing an oil change before I put the bike away for next couple of months so all that garbage is not just sitting in there.

I think a full synthetic oil would be best, the best of the full synthetics is Motul 7100. Then there's Mobile 1 below that.

 

[S2K_MoZo]

I think a full synthetic oil would be best, the best of the full synthetics is Motul 7100. Then there's Mobile 1 below that.

Thanks! I'll get the Mobil 1 4T Racing or whatever it's called in 10W40 since I don't know any Motul dealers around me. :grin2:

 

[EvilBunny]

$300 is crazy I just had mine done and paid $179. Most people consider the first one the most important so I wanted the service record of a dealer doing it. In case I ever want to sell it.