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Discussion Starter #1
I finally broke down and bought the MZS shorties. I have to say, for the price, they fit really well and compliment the angles on the bike. I'm impressed with the quality so far. No fitment issues, no sticking, and the adjusters work as intended, just as the stock do!

For anyone else wanting to swap levers, here ya go!

 

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I have to agree that for the price the quality of the product is outstanding. Just ordered a second pair as mine got all scratched up from the crash, but still function perfectly fine.
 

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I had those exact same levers on my old bike and liked them a lot. I'm holding out to find some black levers that don't have the red adjustment pieces. I just want black Shorty levers with either black or silver adjustments. I know it's goofy, but that's what's holding me back.
 

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Hey everyone,

I bought the MZS Levers...however there is a strange issue...

On settings 1,2,3 (Closer settings) the bike will not start with the clutch pulled in while in first gear. (Is the clutch not fully engaged because the lever is on a closer setting!?) (Shifting also seems to be off and rougher)

On settings 4,5,6 the bike with start in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in. (It seems that the bike is shifting easier on these settings...both up and down shifting)

I am a new rider, I am trying to learn what is going on here and if I should switch back to my OEM levers and what damage it could be doing or if there is a fix.
 

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Mines kind of weird too. If it's anything lower that 5, The engine won't cut off completely when I fully use the clutch. Its only a small set back but I actually prefer to have it on a high setting. It could be a common aftermarket lever problem. I like them too much to keep the stock ones though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You have improper clutch freeplay. If adjusting it at the clutch lever itself doesn't fix it, you need to make some adjustment where the cable meets the gear box. You want only 1/8" movement of the lever before you feel the tension. Or, pull in the lever and watch where it connects to the gear box. When you see the actuator on the gear box begin to move, check the gap on the clutch lever and adjust accordingly.
 

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Hey there,

check your owners manual first before proceeding anywhere near the gearbox!
Since this is a new bike, properly adjusting your clutch freeplay at the clutch lever itself should fix the issue.

As stated by Tremonte, you should have around 2-3mm of freeplay before you see the cable move.
Make sure that is the case and adjust accordingly if necessary.

I'd comment on my aftermarket levers but the vendor is stilling getting the official papers ready so the bike stands....still...

Cheers,
Alex
 

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So the problem has nothing to do with adjusting the freeplay. Due how close the clutch is to the left handgrip on settings 1,2 and 3...there is not enough travel space when pulling in the clutch to actuate the clutch switch. Therefore because there is fewer travel in the handle the switch can not fully release. This is resulting in poor gear shifting and failure to start in any gear but neutral.

On settings 1,2,3 the clutch switch release distance is shorter than on settings 4,5,6. I'll take pictures tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I wonder if you got a bad lever? I think mine is set on 3, but i've used it at 1 and 2 with no issues.

Yeah, now that I think about it, I even used the different settings in the video I did on slipping the clutch and preventing stalls to show how the adjustable levers work.
 

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Hi, I noticed there is a little white pin, which gets pushed when clutch level is engaged. Does anyone know what is the function of it? Does it just tell the control unit that the clutch has been pushed?
 

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It does not work for me. Meaning I cannot start the bike on 1 even with clutch pressed after I installed new levers (I do not remember if it worked with factory ones). I will check it out.
 
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